EcoSmart ECO 8 Tankless Water Heater, Electric, 8-kW - Quantity 1, 12 x 8 x 4

El calentador se encontraba físicamente en buenas condiciones

I (late 40's, mechanically-minded woman) just installed this unit in our home. Installation not too complicated, this replaced a 50-gallon tank water heater. Servicing two sinks and two appliances, (kitchen, 1/2 bath and laundry room) I sized this item to the available electrical supply, as I did not wish to incur the extra expense of additional wire and another circuit breaker. Existing wiring consisted of one double-pole 40-amp breaker and sufficient gauge conduit. Since this unit is supplying a dishwasher, washing machine, kitchen sink and bathroom sink, none of which would be likely opened at the same time, I figured this unit should be more than sufficient.So far, so good. Did not experience the leakage problems with the compression fittings others have noted, I think these fittings simply require a gentle hand. I did have to make adjustments from 3/4" supply lines down to the 1/2" necessary for this unit; the downsized pipe acts as a self-restrictor of sorts, slowing down the water flow to allow ample heating of the water before it exits the heater.I also installed an inline scale inhibitor filter, Aqua-Pur AP430SS, so reconfiguring the plumbing was necessary, as well as the addition of two 1/4-turn ball valves. (Highly recommend replacing the crappy spigot-handled gate valves that are typically installed with original tank water heaters, these things rarely actually completely shut off the water supply to the heater, especially in an emergency or during maintenance.)This was also my first attempt at sweating copper pipe and fittings, and after a few tries, achieved success with leak-free connections. Hubby seemed impressed that I did not burn down the house... although I don't think he really was confident in allowing me to play with the blow torch.A word of caution, as others have mentioned, the manufacturer stipulates installation by a professional plumber, (name and license number required on the warranty registration card) or apparently that 'lifetime warranty' is voided. That is disappointing, but if installation will cost more than the appliance, (as is common) sometimes you gotta do what you must. Did spend additional funds for the sediment filter, copper pipe and brass and copper fittings, and flexible SS supply lines, (highly recommend Falcon Industries' hoses, although they're made in China,) but estimate I saved a minimum $300.00 on installation, probably more.Be careful with the compression fittings, enclose your electrical connections inside a lidded junction or outlet box, and purge the line for a few minutes to ensure all air has been removed prior to turning on the heater, and you should be good to go.I do like the simple knob control, which allows precise selection of output temperature, and the fact that the unit can be turned on or off without having to mess with the breaker panel. This is handy when changing out the sediment filter, or for other non-electrical maintenance.It will be interesting to note the difference in the next electric bill or two; this is the second tankless electric water heater we've installed in the house. (Purchased previous unit on Amazon, see my earlier reviews for that unit.) After the first one about eight years ago, the following month's electric bill was about $30.00 cheaper. Eagerly anticipating the next one to see if similar utility savings will be realized. Also have plans to utilize the newly-found storage space in the corner of our garage that was formally occupied by the old water tank.

I built a 16'x20' wood floor shop and installed under floor heating in 2016. Bought this unit as a low cost proof of concept heat source because it met my power requirements and flow rate. I installed a meter to monitor usage and it has over 15,000 hours of flawless operation time on it even while pumping water/antifreeze mixture. I installed a thermal sensor to cut it off when the return temp reaches 110F to let the hot water warm the floor and save some electricity. When the temp drops it turns back on and doesn't need to need to run at full power. I keep wanting to put a current monitor to see what actual watts it draws when not at a full "burn." Our winters here lately have been in the sub 0 range and with this unit my shop will keep at a cozy 65F. I do need to do some more insulation under the floor to make it more efficient but that has nothing to do with the water heater. When this unit dies, I have no qualms about buying another one

For the money, it is not worth it. I bought this unit because I did not want to use natural gas any longer. I was on my way to installing solar panels and LiOn battery storage. It took 2 months to figure out that it was not my plumbing that was the problem but it was the unit. Which is past the return date. Now I'm stuck with it. Going back to gas for now with a unit rated at 4.5gpm. Hopefully that will solve the issue.last week, tech support says 1.5GPM but that is not true it is much less. I expected a bit more from an endless supply of hot water but that is not the case. A 1 GPM is but a trickle of hot water. I thought that maybe anything above that would be warm. Again, that is not the case with this model. Anything above 1GPM flow rate, the heating element completely shuts down. Leaving you with no warm water at all but all cold. This is practically useless even for a one person use. The flow rate is so low that it is more of an aggravation than any convenience.I also went to an expense to hire an electrician to put in 40amp breakers. Just a total waste of money. The higher you go in GPM the hire you have to invest in higher amp breakers. Some of these breakers will cost $100+.Don't buy this unit.